Why Fyrebrand?

Well, I had long used the username Foenyx. I like the idea of a phoenix, the eternal chance at starting over again. The spelling is because almost any place I register, it's not already in use. So when it came time to open a store, I wanted a name that wasn't about an item or even a type of item. So I went with the Foenyx theme and decided on Fyrebrand. Same odd spelling and to boot, it is one of the meanings of my given name. I hope to regain some of that fire that tortured my parents when I was a young child, but would surely bolster me now.

In the Beginning...

Thanksgiving of 2005 was spent with the in-laws. I was nursing my 14mo daughter down to sleep. Normally I would have been out with the family, but not only was she overstimulated, not everyone in the house was comfortable with breastfeeding. So, I was in the dark, just thinking, and I began to envision mei tais that had designs on them. Particularly designs that followed the shape of the curved top mei tai that was my favorite. As the ideas danced through my head, my daughter fell asleep and I was free to grab some writing implements and jot down my ideas and do a few crude sketches.

When I got home, I was eager to try my pet idea out- a dragon. So I looked through my fabric stash (one medium sized box at that point) and picked two fabrics I thought would do. A great tropical weight wool in black and a coral colored dupioni silk. I had always just kind of put together my patterns on the fly depending on what had worked the last time I made a carrier and what I had with me at the time. That's how I started making wide straps- I had no padding when I wanted to make my first MT.

This time, I actually did a sketch true-to-size and followed measurements based on previous carriers. I added tiny details like little triangles of silk and decorative stitching for scales. I was really pleased with the result, except that I had somehow flipped the scaled on the tail. Also, when worn you could not do an apron tie method and get the full effect of the dragon and the tail. Here's the end result, I am still pleased with how it turned out. It was definitely a one-of-a-kind idea in the carrier world at the time (and I believe still is).

I think I should mention here that I have never had a formal sewing class and was never taught how to applique. What I have created has been from desire, trial and error and reading my sewing machine manual. I hope to one day take a class to totally refine my techniques, but until then I strive to make each design the best that I can, tweaking any improvements that I see need to be tweaked.

I thought I knew what I Wanted

In the babywearing world, Kozys are popular. Even more popular are discontinued Kozy fabrics. One of those is the "Desert Camo" print. A great neutral that has a camouflage print composed of flowers. I adored it, but I preferred one with a pocket, after searching for the fabric (I found it- in a thin silk), I ended up buying a black Kozy with a Desert Camo pocket. I decided to remove the pocket, remove the Desert Camo body, add it to the black Kozy and replace the pocket. What to do with the remains of the natural body? I gave it a dye bath and added a fabric that I loved from the Valori Wells Eclectic collection. It reminded me of dandelions, the 'Official Flower of the Military Brat". Unlike most Kozy fabrics, it wasn't a bottom weight fabric, but like Kozy fabrics, it wasn't a quilting cotton. It had stretch to it, which I took to mean it had some Lycra, which would prolong the life of the fabric. I eventually added a pocket to this one also.

I eventually took the Desert Camo Kozy apart, replaced it to it's original condition and was left with just the body of a Desert Camo. I couldn't add it to the newly pink body, so it's still waiting for a new home.

The Bright Idea

Knowing that my least favorite part of sewing my dream mei tais was the construction part, not the decorating part, I began to think about a blank canvas. The idea struck me, Kozy could literally be my canvas. I really like the Kozy, how Kelley makes sure she puts a quality product out that is made to last. I had already been in contact with Kelley because she was in my NINO group. I had corresponded with her before about starting a business and really learned from her insights. I loved how she used heavier weight fabrics so they would last longer, restricted strap colors because that helped keep the costs down for her customers and many other tiny little things. She has a good business ethic and works hard to help babywearing (and not just her carriers) work for the mothers she's in contact with. So could I get a 'blank Kozy' and use its canvas literally as my canvas? So I contacted Kelley.

The Guidelines

Much to my delight, Kelley agreed to let me use her carriers for my fabric art! I have guidelines, based on my discussions with Kelley and my own desire to hold to the Kozy standard.
I will not change the structure of a Kozy in any way.
I add a tag (actually embroidery) that marks the Kozy as altered.
I strive to only use heavier weight fabrics in my designs.
I do not create a waiting list, my designs are take them as they come.

The Pricing

Since there is no cheaper way to get a blank Kozy that just buy them, my initial overhead is just what it would be for anyone. Add the dye and various fabrics and supplies and it adds up. Conventional wisdom says I should also charge for my time, but when all that adds up, it's a carrier too expensive even for the die-hard carrier collector. I hesitate to price them too high, because I tend to think of panel, silk and bling Kozys as the gold-standard of unique Kozys. Since I also wanted to start make them more frequently, I decided that I had to increase my profit margin. So that's when I decided to auction each of them off at WAHMchicks, starting at the cost of supplies only. Anything else is a bonus. I can guarantee that each Kozy takes me a minimum of three hours just in construction. More when you add conception, design, prep and so on. So buyers can consider my time as a donated labor of love, for the little ones they love, themselves and myself. Creating is relaxing, rewarding, affirming and as a mother, it's nice to have one task that is finished and won't be undone!

The first Official Fyrebranded Kozy

I kind of experimented with dyes I had from Dharma Trading, and ended up with a dark peachy color. I'm really bad at naming colors, so if you have a better descriptor, I welcome it! I had a fairy applique panel from Calico Dreams, an Etsy shop. I paired it with some fabric I adore, a dogwood blossom with subtle gold accents. While the applique (my how I wish I could do the little detailed work!) was quilting fabric, the frame fabric had some stretch to it, promising some Lycra content. I fitted it to the Kozy and carefully stitched it on, then added decorative stitching around the edges of the fairy panel.

Part Deux

The next one, I thought, how cool would it be to have a flower pot as a pocket? What to plant in there? The fabric store yielded the answer! Butterflies. So the Butterfly Garden Kozy was born. Ribbons for stems, butterfly cutouts for flowers and a striped flowerpot pocket with decorative stitching pulled it all together.

The Au Naturale One

While a heated debate went on at the forums about the design of unique carriers, I began to think what design would work on a black Kozy. One I didn't have to dye. That's when the idea of a Stained Glass Kozy was born. From then on I kept an eye out for a workable stained glass design. Most were people (I can't draw people!), nature or geometric designs. In my quest for a simple yet beautiful design, I found a Georgia O'Keefe painting, much like this one:


So I designed a panel inspired by the simple blossoms. Silk was, of course, the best fabric for the imitation of glass. I cut out the pieces on paper, traced them and cut them out of the fabric. Then I painstakingly (literally, I had a couple of burns to prove it) ironed the edges over so when I sewed them onto the Kozy I didn't risk frayed edges. I sent Kelley a picture, and while I liked the simplicity, I agreed with her that it needed more. This was my first auction FBKozy.
Known as "my-woo" in its new home.

The Birth of a Cotton Panel Kozy

So, those that are in the know, well, they know all about Panel Kozys. A brilliant and beautiful re-purposing of certain types of chain stitched silk panels (and more recently, wire wrapped thread, dubbed bling panels). My husband knew I loved them. He had been hearing about them off and on for close to a year. Highlights of these discussions were when we happened upon a kiosk at the mall near his work that had similar (if poor imitations) of the panels. He bought me two, one of which became a silk and patchwork mei tai. The other is still sitting in my sewing closet. Shortly after that, at our NINO Christmas party, I forced him to appreciate the panels in their fully made velveteen glory (Kelley sometimes gives our group a sneak peak of PKs to come). Sometime after the start of the new year, my name finally came up on the list and I got to pick my panel! Fast forward to shortly before the heated panel debate (maybe shortly after?). He comes home with a handful of cotton panels and proudly gives them to me. He had gotten a deal at the kiosk because of his recent interest in learning the Arabic language. Knowing the way people are protective of certain work at home moms like Kelley and their intellectual properties, I emailed her pictures and asked for permission to use them. Her response was that she liked the panels, please make sure they are practical for putting on a baby carrier. I washed and dried them, and to be honest abused them a bit by letting my daughter cart them around.

For this Kozy I was trying for a purple-midnight blue. I added the soda ash fixer too late and ended up with a color between the fairy and the butterflies I had made. I sent it into the dye bath one more time, this time emptying my black cherry dye and was thrilled to pull out a scrumptious, rich plum colored Kozy! I did not dye the tote this time as I had learned the dye process tends to shrink the canvas. Unlike the Kozy, that company must not prewash their fabric. I added stabilizer to the back of the panel and attached it to the Kozy, stitching it on with three rows, one a decorative waves design that reflected the pattern in the panel. I added the same stitching to the curved part of the body and the flat part of the top straps. When you add it to the top of the straps where the padding is, it can add pressure points. I also avoided the bottom straps because I wasn't sure how to deal with the handy strap pocket.

Now called 'efilant' in its new home.

Another Vision come to Reality

Although I felt so isolated while I was living in Hawaii, I love the culture and I don't think anyone can ever get the island out of them once they have been there. I remembered looking out our upstairs window and seeing the moon over the sea late at night. I remember the most beautiful colors the waves are there. I wanted to bring that into fabric. The next time I was at the fabric store, I kept an eye out for something that would work. I found a mix of prints I thought would be perfect. They almost were. On a subsequent trip, I found a fifth fabric that completed the look. I was thrilled the dye bath turned out perfectly, and began to apply my prepared patches. This time I had decided to use iron on stabilizer and seal the edges that way. It also made it less stressful adding all the pieces because they were there, not slipping and not fraying. There was some debate between my husband and myself about whether or not the sun/moon should be a gold silk or one of the fabrics. He really liked where I chose to cut the piece out of the fabric (near the darker purple and off-centered on a circle pattern.)

What's Next?

I have a whole list of ideas. But right now, I am at a crossroads and I am not sure when I will be making another FB Kozy. I hope soon, but I can't say for sure.